Author: Grade A Cuts

Ever looked at your river birch and wondered, “Can I just chop off one of these trunks?” 

Well, you’re not alone. River birches, with their cool peeling bark and multiple trunks, are awesome trees, but sometimes they can get a bit… crowded. Maybe one trunk’s growing too close to your house, or you just don’t like the look. 

Whatever the reason, you’re probably wondering if it’s okay to remove a trunk. 

In this post, we’ll explain if you can cut one trunk of a river birch tree. We’ll cover the dos, the don’ts, and all the stuff in between.

Can You Cut One Trunk of a River Birch?

Yes, you can cut one trunk of a river birch, But hold on a second before you grab that saw! It’s not something to do without thinking it through.

River birches are usually sold and planted with multiple trunks—normally three or more growing from the same base. Removing one of these trunks might affect the tree’s health, stability, and appearance.

Also Read: Can You Cut Off The Top Of A Holly Tree?

So before you go ahead, there are some things to consider:

Overall Tree Health

First things first, check out how healthy your tree is. A tree in good shape is going to handle losing a trunk better than a sickly one. 

Look for any signs that your tree isn’t doing so hot, like diseases, pests, or rotting parts. 

If your tree’s already struggling, cutting off a trunk could make things worse.

Structure And Balance Of Remaining Trunks

River birches naturally grow with multiple trunks, and that’s part of what makes them stable and unique-looking. 

If you take one trunk away, it might throw the whole tree off balance. 

Think about how the other trunks will hold up the tree’s canopy and if the tree’s going to look weird and lopsided after you’re done.

Proximity To Structures

If you’ve got a trunk that’s getting too close to your house or patio, you might need to remove it. 

But here’s the thing – the whole tree might have been planted too close to begin with.

In that case, you might want to think about taking out the entire tree and planting something else that fits better in that spot.

Also Check Out Our Midlothian Tree Trimming Service

Tree Age And Size

Younger river birches are usually better at bouncing back from trunk removal than older ones. 

The size of the trunk you want to remove matters too. Taking off a big, mature trunk is going to impact the tree a lot more than removing a smaller one.

How To Cut One Trunk Of A River Birch

Okay, so you’ve weighed all the factors and decided to go ahead with cutting a trunk.

First things first, timing is important. You’ll want to do this in late fall or winter. This way, you’re not stressing out the tree when it’s trying to grow, and you won’t lose as much sap

Also make sure you’ve got clean, sharp tools. This helps make clean cuts and reduces the chance of spreading diseases.

For smaller trunks, pruning shears or loppers will do the trick. If you’re dealing with a bigger trunk, you might need a pruning saw or chainsaw.

And don’t forget to gear up with gloves and eye protection!

Cutting Off One Trunk

When you’re ready to cut, get as close to the base of the trunk as you can, right above where it joins the other trunks. Cut at a slight angle so water runs off instead of pooling on the cut.

Also Read: Toughest Wood To Split

Don’t leave a stub sticking out – that’s like an open invitation for pests and diseases.

After you’ve made the cut, just leave it be. The tree knows how to heal itself.

Those wound sealants you might have heard about? They’re not recommended anymore because they can actually trap moisture and cause more problems.

Risks Of Cutting One River Birch Trunk

Now, cutting off a trunk of a river birch tree isn’t risk-free.

Your tree might get stressed out, which could make it more likely to get sick or attract pests. 

It could also mess up its structural integrity which could potentially make it more likely to get damaged in storms. And of course, the tree’s going to look different, which might or might not be what you’re going for.

Alternatives To Cutting Off One Trunk

Before you decide to remove a trunk, consider some of the other options too.

Maybe you could just prune and shape the problematic trunk instead of taking the whole thing off. If you’ve got a trunk that’s leaning or unstable, you could get a tree expert to install cables or braces to support it.

Sometimes, it might be better to just remove the whole tree and plant a new one in a better spot.

Bottom Line

So, yeah, you can cut one trunk off a river birch, but it’s not a decision to make lightly. 

Take a good look at how healthy your tree is, think about the risks and how it’ll impact the tree, and consider other options before you do anything. 

If you do decide to remove a trunk, make sure you do it the right way and at the right time to minimize stress on the tree.

If you’re still not sure about what to do, talk to a certified arborist.

FAQs

Can You Cut One Trunk Of A River Birch By Hand?

Yes, you can cut one trunk of a river birch by hand. But it all depends on the size of the trunk. For smaller trunks, a sharp pruning saw or lopper might be enough. But for larger trunks, you need a chainsaw.

Ever wonder what the toughest wood to split is? 

Maybe you’ve been out there with an ax, working up a sweat and getting nowhere. Or you’ve watched someone else struggle and thought, “What’s the big deal?”

Well, turns out some trees are just built to resist.

In this post, I’ll go over the eight toughest woods to split, and explain why they’re difficult and what makes them stand out.

#1 Elm

Elm tops our list of the toughest wood to split.

Its wood fibers are like a tightly woven mat, making it a real challenge to get through. 

When you try to split elm, you’ll notice that it tends to absorb the impact, and your ax might just bounce right off! The fibers stretch and compress rather than separate.

Also Read: Can You Cut Off The Top Of A Holly Tree?

Fresh-cut elm is the most difficult. You need to let elm season for a good long while (at least an year) before you even think about splitting it. 

Some people might even wait until the bark starts falling off on its own.

If you’ve got access to a hydraulic splitter, that’s your best bet for elm. If you’re going old school with tools, try splitting on the coldest day you can stand to be outside. 

Despite all the trouble, elm burns hot and long, so it’s worth the effort if you can manage it.

#2 Sweet Gum

Sweet gum is another wood that’ll test your patience.

It’s got this interlocked grain that just doesn’t want to come apart. Instead of nice clean splits, you often end up with a stringy mess.

Another annoying thing about sweet gum is that it likes to grab onto your splitting tools. You might find yourself spending as much time trying to free your stuck ax as you do actually splitting.

On the bright side, sweet gum dries out pretty quickly compared to some other woods. It also smells nice when you burn it. 

But it doesn’t give off as much heat as some other hardwoods, so you’ll have to decide if it’s worth the trouble.

#3 Ironwood/Hornbeam

Ironwood, also known as hornbeam or musclewood, really lives up to its name. 

This wood is incredibly dense and hard, making it a real challenge to split, even for people who’ve been doing it for years.

It’s so dense that your splitting tools might just bounce off or get stuck. The grain of ironwood is often twisted or irregular, which makes it even harder.

Even though it’s a pain to split, ironwood makes excellent firewood once you get it processed. 

It burns really hot and for a long time, so people who can manage to split it really value it. It actually puts out about as much heat as hickory, which is considered one of the best firewoods.

If you want to split it by hand, you’ll want to use a heavy maul rather than an ax.

Also, check out our stump grinding and tree removal services.

#4 Sycamore

Sycamore trees are beautiful to look at, but when it comes to splitting them, they’re not so pretty. 

The main issue with sycamore is the way its wood grain grows. Instead of nice straight lines, the fibers interlock with each other, making it tough to get a clean split.

When you try to split sycamore, especially if it’s freshly cut, you might feel like you’re trying to chop a rubber tire. 

The wood tends to tear instead of split, leaving you with jagged, uneven pieces.

Sycamore is also known for being pretty wet when it’s first cut. All that extra moisture makes it even harder to split.

#5 Black Gum

Black gum, also called tupelo, is another wood that’ll give you a run for your money. Its interlocked grain makes it resist splitting, and tools often get stuck in it. 

Like sweet gum, it tends to tear instead of split cleanly, which can be pretty frustrating.

Fresh-cut black gum is especially tricky because it’s often full of moisture. 

This wetness, combined with its structure, can make splitting it by hand a real challenge.

Despite all the trouble it gives you while splitting, black gum does make pretty good firewood once you get it processed and properly dried. 

It burns at a moderate heat and lasts a decent amount of time. Some people even like the sweet smell it gives off when it’s burning.

#6 Cottonwood

Cottonwood might not be as hard as some other woods, but it’s still tough.

The biggest issue with cottonwood is that it’s stringy. When you try to split it, instead of breaking cleanly, it tears into long strips that don’t want to separate completely.

Cottonwood is also known for having lots of knots and irregular grain patterns, especially in the branches and upper parts of the tree. 

These quirks can make splitting even more of a challenge.

Plus, it doesn’t give off as much heat when burned, so you might wonder if it’s worth the effort. 

Cottonwood has a relatively low BTU (British Thermal Unit) rating compared to many other firewood types, meaning you need to burn more of it to produce the same amount of heat.

If you’re splitting it by hand, try to split the wood when it’s as fresh as possible. 

Oddly enough, it can actually get harder to split as it dries out and the fibers toughen up.

#7 Beech

Next up on our list is Beech.

When it’s freshly cut, it can be a real pain to split. The wood fibers are packed tightly together and your tools bounce off or get stuck.

Beech is also pretty dense, which adds to the challenge.

Just like the others, it gets easier to split as it dries out. If you let beech rounds sit for 6-12 months, you’ll often find the job much easier. 

As the wood dries, small cracks form that give you natural splitting points.

Once you get it split and seasoned, beech is great firewood. It burns hot and long, and it’s especially good for keeping your fire going overnight in a wood stove. 

It also doesn’t produce much smoke when it’s properly dried.

#8 Maple

The last toughest wood to split on our list is maple.

I know I know, not all maple wood is tough to split, but some types can be a real pain to deal with, especially the ones with twisted grain. Like sugar maple, for example.

It’s really dense and often has this irregular grain that makes it super unpredictable to split. 

Now, if you’ve got straight-grained maple, it’s usually pretty easy to split. 

But if you come across pieces with knots, burls, or twisted grain, it’s a whole different story. These bits can make it really hard to split along the usual lines, and require a lot more effort.

So, you’ve got this beautiful holly tree in your yard, and it’s been growing like crazy. Maybe it’s getting a bit too tall for your liking, or you’re worried it might start blocking your view. 

You might be thinking, “Hey, why don’t I just cut the top off and call it a day?” 

Well, you technically can cut off the top of a holly tree – but it’s not the best idea.

So before you go all Edward Scissorhands on your holly, take a minute and read this post. 

In this post, I’ll break down the consequences of cutting off the top (aka topping) a holly tree, and what you should do instead. 

Should You Cut Off The Top Of A Holly Tree?

Cutting off the top of a holly tree, or any tree for that matter, is not recommended.

This practice is called “topping” and it can cause a bunch of problems for your tree that will compromise its health, structure, and overall appearance.

Let me go over some of these in more detail:

Also Check Out Our Midlothian Tree Services!

Weak Growth And Suckers

When you chop off the top of your holly tree, you’re basically removing its main growing point.

The tree doesn’t like that very much, and it goes into panic mode and starts growing a ton of suckers or new shoots below where you cut.

They grow fast but the problem is they’re not very strong.

They’re usually thinner, weaker, and more spindly than the original growth. These would probably snap when the wind picks up or when snow and ice pile on during winter.

Plus, these suckers make your tree look messy and unkempt.

Unattractive Look

One of the reasons we love holly trees is their natural, pyramidal shape. 

It’s classic, it’s elegant, and it just looks right. 

But when you lop off the top, you’re essentially giving your tree a bowl cut. Remember those? Not a great look on people, and definitely not great on trees either.

What you end up with is a flat-topped or oddly bushy tree that looks out of place and unnatural.

It can make your whole yard look off and takes away from the holly’s natural beauty.

Top-Heavy Tree

This is a problem you might not see coming right away.

As your holly tries to recover from the topping with all those new branches, the upper part of the tree can get really dense – making the tree top heavy.

This extra weight up top puts a lot of stress on the lower branches and the trunk.

Over time, this can break branches or even make the whole tree more likely to topple over in strong winds.

More Prone To Pests And Diseases

Topping creates big wounds that can take forever to heal, if they even heal at all.

These open wounds are like rolling out the red carpet for pests and diseases to come on in and make themselves at home in your tree.

Topped holly trees are more likely to get infested or infected.

Fungi, bacteria, and wood-boring insects can all take advantage of these entry points, potentially leading to decay or disease that can spread throughout the tree.

In the long run, this can seriously shorten your holly tree’s lifespan.

Prune Instead!

Now that we’ve covered all the reasons why topping isn’t great for your holly tree, you might be wondering, “Well, what am I supposed to do then?”

Do some proper pruning instead!

It’s a much kinder way to keep your tree in shape and looking good.

Plus, it’s better for the tree’s health in the long run.

If you do decide to prune your holly tree, the best time to do so is in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. 

How To Prune A Holly Tree

Now, let me show you how to prune a holly tree.

Don’t worry, it’s not as complicated as it might seem. Just follow these steps:

Step 1: Gather Your Tools 

First things first, you need the right tools for the job. 

For pruning a holly tree, you’ll want to get yourself a good pair of bypass pruners. These are great for smaller branches up to about half an inch in diameter. 

For bigger branches, you’ll need some loppers. 

And for those really thick branches (though hopefully, you won’t have too many of these to deal with), a pruning saw might come in handy. 

Make sure all your tools are sharp and clean. Dull tools can damage the tree, and dirty ones can spread disease.

Step 2: Plan Your Cuts

Before you start snipping away, take a good look at your holly tree. Walk around it, step back to see the whole shape. Try to identify any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. 

These are your priority and need to go first. 

Also, look for branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other, as well as any that are growing inward towards the center of the tree. 

Planning your cuts beforehand will help you avoid over-pruning and ensure you maintain a nice, balanced shape.

Step 3: Remove Problem Branches 

Now it’s time to get to work. 

Start by removing those dead, damaged, or diseased branches you identified. 

Cut them back to the nearest healthy branch junction or to the trunk, making sure to make clean cuts at a slight angle. 

This helps water run off the cut surface and promotes faster healing. 

Remember, when cutting back to a branch, don’t leave a stub, but also don’t cut flush with the trunk – aim for the slight swelling where the branch meets the trunk, called the branch collar.

BTW, did you know that we offer tree trimming and tree removal services?

Step 4: Thin Out The Interior 

Next, focus on opening up the center of the tree.

Remove one of each pair of crossing branches, choosing to keep the one that best maintains the tree’s natural shape. 

Also, take out any branches growing towards the center of the tree. 

This improves air circulation and allows more light to reach the interior of the tree, which can help prevent disease and promote overall health.

Step 5: Shape The Exterior

If you’re going for a more formal look, now’s the time to shape the outer branches. 

Make cuts just above a leaf or bud, angling your cut slightly. 

Remember to keep the bottom of the tree slightly wider than the top – this allows sunlight to reach all parts of the tree and prevents the lower branches from dying off.

Step 6: Step Back And Assess 

Take a break and step back to look at your work. Does the tree look balanced? Are there any areas that still look too dense or any awkward branches sticking out? 

Make any final adjustments to achieve an overall pleasing shape. 

Remember, you can always prune more later, but you can’t put branches back once they’re cut!

Bottom Line

You cut off the top of a holly tree, but it’s never a good idea. Instead, prune the holly tree.

Pruning might seem like more work upfront, but trust me, your tree (and your future self) will thank you for it.

That said, always keep in mind the golden rule of pruning – never remove more than one-third of the tree in a single pruning session.